A good friend of mine calibrates his wine purchases by using wine words.  When sources he trusts use terms like creosote or blueberry, he knows that there’s a good chance he’ll like those wines. 

 

One such descriptor for me is earth (and sometimes leaves).  Earthy flavors, of course, can cut both ways. I associate baked earth with warm climate wines from places like Tuscany or Barossa, where it describes the ripe concentrated flavor of the fruit.  At other times the word is an attempt to articulate the taste of terroir in the wine, the soil or climate that contributes to any carefully made bottle.  This is the source of the French expression gout de terroir– (literally taste of earth) which is usually meant as high praise. At the other end are unappetizing elements (barnyard or swampy, anyone?) that point to flaws in the wine.

Here are a few favorites from the full tasting list.  (subscribe for  more).

Angoris, Colli Orientali Del Friuli, Vos Da Vigne, Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso, 2006, Italy, Blanchards, $11  “Vos Da Vigne” translates as Voice of the Vine, and I love this concept.  Here the voice says roasted cherries, earth and clove, and a hint of anise.  Yum.  A-          

Domaine Tempier, Bandol, Vielles Vignes, 2004, France, $35  Cellar Dweller.  A fat, round, balanced wine with charcoal, earth and ripe fruit flavors.  Velvety smooth.  A-          

Parducci, Mendocino, Sustainable Red, Merlot, 2007, wine.com, $11  Prunes.  Baked fruits.  Fall leaves. Even a little umame - definitely in a good way.  A tasty harvest basket of a wine.  Sustainable credentials proudly listed on the back.  B+           

Domaine Mas Du Bouquet, Vacqueyras, Grand Vin de la Vallee du Rhone, 2009, France, Lower Falls Wine, $18  Blackberry, candied apple, charcoal and warm earth.  An appealing wine from a producer who emphasizes sustainable agriculture.  B+    

Earthy wines often pair well with rustic, earthy dishes.  Roast meats, roast chicken, and stews come to mind.  A few of my favorites – Coq au Vin (Chicken in Wine) and Grilled Lamb.  And you could do worse than meatloaf cupcakes

In vino veritas,

Tod